ECOFRIENDLY ORIGINAL APPROACH IN THE STUDY OF CROCUS SATIVUS L BY-PRODUCTS: FROM GREEN EXTRACTIONS TO COSMETIC APPLICATIONS

The aim of this project was to apply eco-friendly extraction methods to Crocus sativus L. exhausted flowers without stigmas to recover antioxidants for cosmetic use. Flowers without stigmas grown in two different Italian regions (Alba and Sibillini) were subjected to different eco-friendly extraction methods. The extracts were assessed for their total phenol content and antioxidant activity and fully characterized for their chemical contents by a validated HPLC-DAD-ESI/MS method. The best results were obtained using simple and fast extractive procedures using green solvents such as water and glycerol, allowing to obtain rich and active extracts with a total phenolic content and an antioxidant activity comparable to well-know sources of antioxidants, such as for example some red fruits. HPLC-DAD-ESI/MS permitted to identify and quantitatively determine phenolic compounds, belonging to anthocyanins, and flavonoids classes. The green extracts were thus characterized and evaluated for their biological potential and safety. Cytotoxicity was evaluated by MTT assay on human keratinocytes cell line (HaCaT). The extract protective effects was also verified against UV irradiation by the same cell under UV irradiation. The formation of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) was evaluated using a fluorescent probe. Extracts were safe and the treatment of HaCaT cells with the extracts was able to counteract the UV-induced damage. Several skin care formulations containing the different green extracts were thus prepared and characterized for their physicochemical properties, stability, and safety. The in vivo evaluation was also assessed, revealing pleasant sensoriality and effective skin care performance.